September 15, 2025
How to Make Non-Alcoholic Beer at Home with the Hot Mash Method
Discover how to craft non-alcoholic beer at home using a straightforward, safe, and efficient method tailored for modern homebrewers. This all-grain process utilizes a high-temperature mash to limit sugar conversion, pH adjustment for safety, and a maltotriose-negative yeast for ultra-low alcohol production, making it ideal for brewers seeking to refine their skills and control flavor. A maltotriose-negative yeast strain cannot ferment maltotriose — a complex sugar that contributes to alcohol formation — which helps keep ABV low while maintaining body and sweetness. Our go-to for NA beers is LalBrew® Windsor British Ale Dry Yeast.
When you brew beer without alcohol, pH becomes your #1 line of defense. Traditional beer relies on alcohol, low pH, and hops to stay shelf-stable. Because alcohol and hop levels are low in these beers, it’s important to control pH to prevent spoilage organisms. While Windsor ferments maltose and other simple sugars, the remaining maltotriose and dextrins can still provide nutrients for some contaminants if pH is not properly managed. Learn why pH matters here.
New to non-alcoholic brewing? Start with the core methods and safety tips:
Need to level up your pH game? These resources help you dial in acids, minerals, and measurement:
- Water Chemistry Basics (Short Pour Pt. 1)
- Understanding pH & CaCO₃ (Short Pour Pt. 2)
- How to Choose a pH Meter
Recipe Development for Hot Mashing
This approach works best with 5-gallon all-grain batches. Expect alcohol levels between 0.5–1.5% ABV, depending on variables like yeast performance and wort composition. While this method typically results in non-alcoholic or extremely low-ABV beer, it may not always meet the legal definition of “non-alcoholic” (under 0.5% ABV). For best results, dial in your ingredients and process with care.
Grain Bill (4.5–6.5 lbs total):
- Base malt: Pilsner, Pale Ale, or Vienna malt (~70–90%)
- Foam/body support: Carapils, wheat malt, or chit malt (~5–15%)
- Mouthfeel/dextrins: Melanoidin, Munich, flaked oats, or rye (~5–10%)
Note: Hot mash brewhouse efficiency is typically low — expect 50–60%.
Hop Schedule (Target 10–20 IBU, Max 25 IBU):
- 5–10 minute boil additions: Soft bitterness (~5–10 IBU)
- Whirlpool additions: At 160–175°F for flavor/aroma without added bitterness
Why Limit IBUs? Because these beers retain more malt body and unfermented compounds, bitterness has less sweetness to balance against. High IBUs can feel sharp or astringent against this grain-forward profile. Keep bitterness moderate so it complements the malt instead of overpowering it. Keep it smooth and drinkable.
Yeast:
Lallemand Windsor (preferred) — a maltotriose-negative English ale yeast that ferments maltose and other simple sugars, but leaves maltotriose and dextrins unfermented. This results in lower attenuation (typically 65–72%) and a fuller-bodied, malt-forward profile that works well for low- and non-alcoholic beers. Just sprinkle it in — no starter or rehydration needed. Fast to start and finish fermentation.
Step-by-Step Hot Mash Method
1. Mash
- Heat 6 gallons of water to 5-10 degrees above your target mash temp.
- Add crushed grains in a mesh bag (BIAB style). Stir well to avoid clumps.
- Hold at 168°F–176°F for 15 minutes.
- This disables amylase enzymes and limits sugar conversion.
2. Remove the Grain Bag
- Lift and drain the bag well. No sparging required.
- You should collect roughly 5–5.25 gallons of wort.
3. Boil
- Bring wort to a boil. Boil for 10–15 minutes to sanitize and reduce DMS precursors.
- Add hops per your recipe during the boil (keep bitterness under 25 IBU).
4. Whirlpool Hop Stand (Optional)
- Cool wort to 160–175°F and steep whirlpool hops for 10–15 minutes.
5. Chill & Top Up
- Chill wort to below 75°F.
- Top up with cold water if needed to reach 5 gallons in the fermenter.
6. Adjust pH (Required)
Before pitching yeast, adjust the wort pH to below 4.6, ideally between 3.8–4.4. We recommend getting as close to 3.8. This step is critical for food safety, especially in non-alcoholic beer where there is no alcohol to protect against microbial growth. Wild yeast and bacteria can thrive in low-alcohol, maltose-rich environments if pH is not properly controlled. We recommend using food-grade lactic acid and/or phosphoric acid and a calibrated pH meter to confirm your target pH range. For more details on fine-tuning your pH, including the difference between acids used, read our post: Understanding and Adjusting pH in Non-Alcoholic Beer: Safety, Stability & Brewing Success.
This part depends on your local water, your malt bill, and how much fermentation occurs. But here’s a solid rule of thumb:
- Start with your chilled wort sample and a calibrated pH meter.
- Add food-grade lactic acid (88%) or phosphoric acid (10%) in small increments.
- Stir thoroughly and wait 10 minutes for the pH to stabilize.
- Test and repeat as needed until you hit your target range (3.8–4.2).
How Much Acid Should I Add?
There’s no one-size-fits-all answer. It depends on your batch size, water chemistry, and recipe. But for a 5-gallon batch, a good starting dose is:
- 1 ml lactic acid (88%)
- 10 ml phosphoric acid (10%)
Always test with a calibrated pH meter — never dose blindly. Test strips aren’t accurate enough at brewing pH levels and can give false readings, especially in darker worts.
7. Pitch Yeast
- Sprinkle Lallemand Windsor directly onto wort. No starter or oxygen needed.
- Do not oxygenate — oxygen can increase alcohol formation in low-gravity wort.
- Ferment at 68–72°F for 3–5 days or until gravity stabilizes.
8. Cold Crash & Package
- Once gravity is stable, cold crash for 24–48 hours.
- Force carbonate to 2.6–2.8 vols CO₂.
- Do not bottle condition — residual sugars can cause dangerous overcarbonation or bottle bombs.
Final Tips
- Always confirm final gravity and pH before packaging. Your pH must remain below 4.4 — ideally around 3.8–4.2 — to ensure microbial stability and shelf safety.
- Sanitation is critical. Low-alcohol and non-alcoholic beers lack alcohol’s preservative power, making them more prone to spoilage.
- Store cold and drink fresh. These beers are best enjoyed within a few weeks for peak flavor and microbial safety.
